I hadn’t deliberate to spend many of the fall thus far making skillets upon skillets of baked, gooey, decadent macaroni and cheese, although given the state of issues proper now, maybe this regular dose of consolation meals was some unintended brilliance on my half. However largely it began as a result of we had baked mac and cheese from The Smith one evening. My youngsters fought over the past scrapings from the pan and I reminded them — I truthfully don’t even suppose they notice it typically — that I might make it for them, too. And so the subsequent evening, I pulled up my trusty Martha’s mac-and-cheese, a perpetually SK and web favourite, and it instantly …irked me. Begin with cooked pasta? Heat the milk for the bechamel? So many pans, so many bowls, so many steps. On a Tuesday, no much less. It felt unacceptable.
As soon as one thing will get underneath my pores and skin, I can overlook my different editorial plans. I used to be now pursued by a have to make it higher, simpler, and extra sensible for my actual life in 2024. Every week since, I’ve made it one to 2 extra instances (I’m very talked-about with family and friends proper now, thanks very a lot), making an attempt to shave off time, steps, and preserving it easy sufficient that I’ve mainly memorized it. And that is the consequence, my new perpetually go-to baked macaroni and cheese with the very best a part of the easiest baked mac and cheese (no have to boil the pasta) with the very best components of Martha’s (a decadent, excellent sauce) and as little fuss as attainable.
A number of particulars:
Raw pasta: Soaking the raw pasta in sizzling faucet water for 10 minutes eliminates the necessity to boil the pasta, saving us a step. I additionally most well-liked this methodology as a result of even once I lowered the boiling time of the noodles to three or 4 minutes, I nonetheless felt that they ended up too mushy by the point the macaroni got here out of the oven. I examined this sizzling faucet water methodology with Barilla, De Cecco, and Dealer Joe’s manufacturers of elbow macaroni, and all cooked to an ideal tenderness with a 10-minute soak and 30-minute bake.
Single pan: Making the cheese sauce in an ovenproof skillet means we simply use a single pan which delights me, an individual who hates washing dishes.
Toasted crumbs: I used to be disillusioned that the buttered breadcrumbs by no means picked up sufficient coloration within the oven and began toasting them first within the skillet. In addition they tackle a browned butter taste, which upsets no person. (Those in these images acquired just a little by accident darkish however nonetheless tasted nice.)
Seasoning and spice: I think about this a core recipe with a easy taste profile: salt, black pepper, cayenne, and a pinch of nutmeg. My youngsters don’t prefer it once I add mustard powder or smoked paprika, but it surely doesn’t imply you can’t tweak issues with flavors that may make it style extra traditional to you. Listed here are a couple of recommendations: Add a teaspoon of mentioned powdered mustard, 1 teaspoon sizzling or delicate smoked paprika, 1 clove of minced garlic, a couple of shakes of sizzling sauce, and/or some recent thyme leaves.
Cheese decisions: My excellent baked mac and cheese trifecta is 1 half pecorino (which is salty and just a little funky), 2 components gruyère (which is nutty and harmonizes nicely), and three components sharp white cheddar (traditional and ideal). However I’ve changed the gruyère in checks or as a result of what I had round with every little thing from comté to jack, gouda, fontina, and even raclette cheese and so they had been all improbable. Search for one thing melty, nutty, and just a little funky. When you exchange the pecorino with parmesan, you would possibly wish to bump up the salt barely. For a fair cheesier mac and cheese, you’ll be able to improve the cheddar from 6 to eight ounces.
Measurement and yield: Whereas 90% of the time I make it as written, excellent for 4 servings, it may be simply doubled in a 12-inch spherical skillet, my favorite braiser, or a 9×13-inch baking dish for the larger vacation gatherings forward. The baking time is identical.
Evaporated milk: I discovered when making Kenji Lopez-Alt’s three-ingredient stovetop mac and cheese for our first podcast episode last spring that utilizing evaporated milk — sure, the canned stuff — within the place of some or all milk in mac and cheese may also help hold the sauce creamy and clean, because of the larger focus of milk proteins. So, I examined this a couple of instances with half the milk swapped with a 12-ounce can of evaporated milk (which holds 1.5 cups) and did discover that the sauce had a barely smoother high quality, particularly when reheated. However, I wasn’t spiritual about it. I used it if I had it, and really feel that the recipe continues to be wonderful if you happen to use all common milk.
It’s right here! The particular audiobook version of Smitten Kitchen Keepers, Smitten Kitchen Keepers: A Kitchen Counter Conversation! printed yesterday. Learn by me, I hope it feels precisely such as you’ve pulled up a chair and we’re hanging out within the kitchen collectively. Bonus recipe: If you buy the audiobook, you’ll obtain a signed vacation card from me, excellent to present as a present, with a bonus recipe. To obtain your card, full the shape along with your buy order quantity right here. [US Residents, 18+. Ends December 13, 2024.]