In Jaipur, the FDCI India Men’s Weekend 2025 showcases gender fluid fashion and rebellious streetwear

Men in tousled hair, kohl rimmed eyes, bold jewellery, and six pack abs wander around Jaipur’s graceful old Diggi Palace all day. We are at the influential FDCI India Men’s Weekend 2025 presented by Chivas Luxe Perfumes, for a glamorous peek into what men are wearing this year.

While ramp looks may seem unattainable, and even sometimes intimidatingly edgy, these ideas filter down to the high street and everyday wardrobes rather quickly, so it’s a useful glimpse into what is likely to influence your personal style. 

Sunil Sethi, Chairman of the The Fashion Design Council of India | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

The weekend featured some of the 26 shows, from the country’s most established designers as well as bright new talent, including Rajesh Pratap Singh, JJ Valaya, Shantanu & Nikhil, Varun Bahl, Ashish N Soni, Bloni and more, showcasing innovative approaches and silhouettes to materials and techniques. 

Sunil Sethi, chairman, The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), explains how the organisation, which has about 400 members from the industry, works to further the business of fashion in India and ensure its sustainable growth. “We are giving people a platform to shine… And I am looking for people who want to experiment,” he says, adding that menswear has been getting more attention, drawing more young talent. “This year we also have four women designers who have an interesting range of men’s wear.”  

In Pictures: Day 1 of FDCI India Men’s Weekend 2025

Arjan Dugal makes his debut at FDCI Menswear Weekend 2025, unveiling ‘Vintage 2030’—a collection that bridges the past and the future through a contemporary lens.

Drawing from heritage, Arjan Dugal’s line celebrates Indian craftsmanship by introducing zardozi embroidery, leatheraccessories and, for the first time, a footwear line.

Nought One by Abhishek Paatni’s philosophy offers a hybrid between conventional andcontemporary styles.

Son of a Noble Snob’s latest collection features geometric forms and floral patterns, which are reimagined in a fluid,distorted manner.

Prints used in Son of a Noble Snob’s new line explores the balance of opposing forces, using linens and a mix of print and surfacemanipulation techniques.

VK by Vivek Karunakaran’s clothes are a celebration of identity, and the line features softly draped veshtis, fluid palazzos and embroidered Madras checks, all rooted in Tamil Nadu, specifically Chennai.

His latest line is inspired by the Thirukkural, reimagined in natural fibres like silk organza, taffeta, linen and Egyptian cotton.

Men in lace saunter down the runway in Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey’s exuberant, gender fluid collection titled Be Right Back.

Antar-Agni by Ujjawal Dubey’s clothes feature asymmetrical lines, and structure with fluidity, in ivory and earthy neutrals like caramel.

Nitin Bal Chauhan, who is from Chamba, has been inspired by one of India’s oldest wooden mural temples, Devi Kothi dedicated to goddess Chamunda, for his 2025 collection.

Miniature paintings of the Devi Kothi temple are hand-painted onto hoodies using Air Ink — an ink made from collecting vehicular carbon emissions in Delhi and NCR, which Nitin Bal Chauhan has been experimenting with.

Pawan Sachdeva’s line features cotton and denim treated with distinctive washes and dynamic brush strokes, all adorned with handwritten quotes.

Pawan Sachdeva’s is known for his love for patterns, motifs and technique.

The “On the Road Again” collection by designer Samant Chauhan balances the boldness of motorcycle culture with the elegance of contemporarymenswear.

Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna embrace quiet luxury, inspired by Rajasthan’s palaces with their inlaid marble and textured sandstone.

Varun Bahl lives up to his moniker ‘the Couturier of Flowers’ with this romantic, intricately designed collection.

JJ Valaya founded the House of Valaya in 1992, and is known for his glamorous, opulent clothes.

This year Shantnu & Nikhil take the drape to its true frontier: the bottoms. The dhotis of the desert, the layered skirts of wandering tribes, the structured regalia of maharajas—all deconstructed and reimagined into a powerful wardrobe.

In this collection, culottes, billowing trousers, and gathered pants become the new insignia of the Shantnu & Nikhil man.

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In Pictures: Day 2 of FDCI India Men’s Weekend 2025

Mandira Wirk’s collection draws inspiration from glamorous holidays and the yacht life.

Models walked the ramp in Mandira Wirk’s bright, cheerful prints, in outfits crafted for beach parties and summer holidays.

Mahima Mahajan walks the ramp, along with the models in black, a move away from the cheery botanical prints she is known for.

Mahima Mahajan uses flowers and butterflies on luxurious textures in her new collection.

From putting men in shimmering corsets to creating lavish embroidery carpeted over geometric weaves on jackets, Nikita Mhaisalkar’s collection celebrates the cheerful notes of Afro pop culture.

Inspired by Nikita Mhaisalkar’s recent holiday in Africa, the collection is a tribute to travel, featuring structured pant suits, bomber jackets and flowing trench coats.

Nirmooha by Prreeti Jaiin Nainutia showcased deep indigos, faded crimsons,and maroons, along with teals and earthy browns.

Nirmooha’s collection fuses denim, crochet fabrics, and soft knits, symbolising both structure andfragility.

Bloni by Akshat Bansal articulates its design diversity through gender agnosticism and future thinking. This includes exploring craft and unexpected fabrics.

BLONI’s collection imagines what bodies could wear, from experimental silhouettes to innovative fabrics.

With a palette steeped in deep greys and brown hues, Designer Sushant Abrol questions warfare, inspired by a charred piece of an aircraft’s fuselage.

Although Sushant Abrol’s clothes are based on the combative forms of military clothing, from trench coats to bomber jackets, they also exude a sense of hope with thoughtful details like kantha stitches that run through the collection.

Gaurav Khanijo’s intricate embroidery, appliqué, and androgynous tailoring entwine with rich textures, drawing from Rajasthan’s raw natural elements—scorpions, snakes, camels, and local artistry.

Models walked the ramp in symbolic prints, batiks, ajrakh, and experimental textures in Gaurav khanijo ‘s collection, which featured deep ombrés of reds, blues, and greens.

Sahil Aneja’s line ‘Play more’ is a bold celebration of movement, energy, and self-expression with vibrant, quirky elements.

Sahil Aneja’s clothes blend comfort with style, featuring dynamicsilhouettes, vibrant hues, and innovative textures.

Flamboyant Manoviraj Khosla uses different types of traditional Kantha embroidery and batik work on varied silhouettes of men’s wear.

From traditional Sherwanisto bomber jackets, Manoviraj Khosla’s collection focuses on how versatile traditional art forms are ongarments, especially men’s wear.

Dhruv Vaish’s collection comes together with precision and quiet confidence.

The collection by Dhruv Vaish, in hues of white black and silver, comprises shifting silhouettes and neat details.

Special Arrangement

Siddartha Tytler’s moody colour palette, with deep black, teal, and navy is broken up with streaks of silver in tailored suits softened with drapes, oversized jumpers and fluid hakama pants.

Twilight meets Fifty Shades of Grey, and Gothic grunge meets precision tailoring at Siddartha Tytler’s show, where angular models with slicked back hair and aggressive silver face accessories walk around a roaring fire.

Ashish Soni‘s ‘Less is More’ philosophy results in flawless lines, clean cuts and an eye for the perfect finish.

In this collection by Ashish Soni, embellishments are used with restraint, if at all, to highlight form resulting in classic and timeless garments.

Rajesh Pratap Singh’s theatrical show was a tribute to biker culture, with men on bikes circling a roaring fire, while models walked around them.

Rajesh Pratap Singh stands as an artisanal brand with deep Indian roots and understated approach to luxury.

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We watch the shows and meet the designers to find out what men will be wearing this year. 

Outfits by Siddartha Tytler | Photo Credit: DANISH

Siddartha Tytler: A rebellious personal style  

Twilight meets Fifty Shades of Grey, and Gothic grunge meets precision tailoring at Siddartha Tytler’s show, where angular models with slicked back hair and aggressive silver face accessories walk around a roaring fire at the Diggi Palace courtyard, to Madonna’s ‘Like a Prayer’.

The moody colour palette, with deep black, teal, and navy is broken up with streaks of silver in tailored suits softened with drapes, oversized jumpers and fluid hakama pants. Look closer and there are clever surface embellishments making every texture more interesting: applique details, shimmering sequins, and crystal work, in addition to delicate ruffles at the wrist and unexpected zips.

From Siddartha Tytler’s range | Photo Credit: DANISH

“Every season, we try and do something different,” says Siddartha, adding that he used a versatile microfibre from Vietnam for the line. “It’s beautiful and it falls very well.”

The brooding, rather masculine collection features some unexpected twists, like corsets and sweeping skirts. “These are little elements to wake people up,” smiles the designer, adding, “I’m a child of the 80s and a student of the 90s: so it’s all about high fashion, glamour and sex.” 

Antar-Agni’s exuberant collection titled Be Right Back | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Antar Agni by Ujjawal Dubey: Gender fluid fashion 

Men in lace saunter down the runway in Antar-Agni’s exuberant collection titled Be Right Back. “It’s a small playful collection,” says Ujjawal, “I’ve used more colour and added botanical prints, as well as abstract embroidery.”

From Antar-Agni’s range | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

In comparison to his dark monotones of the past, this collection is bright and hopeful, with clean cuts and jaunty surface work. “I used lace this time, but it’s very subtle. I like working with the most common elements, and taking a fresh look at them, like lace, pin tucks and pleats,” he says, adding “My clothes are a little feminine… I run away from standardisation.”

The collection features asymmetrical lines, and structure with fluidity, in ivory and earthy neutrals like caramel. As the male models walk: glittering jewellery, hints of feminine lace and embroidery come together with sleek masculine lines.  

Nitin Bal Chauhan was inspired by one of India’s oldest wooden mural temples, Devi Kothi | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Nitin Bal Chauhan: Street wear with personality  

Take armour, but make it chic. Nitin uses armour core to give his signature streetwear an edge.  

The designer, who is from Chamba, has been inspired by one of India’s oldest wooden mural temples, Devi Kothi dedicated to goddess Chamunda, for his 2025 collection. Nitin says, “I wanted to bring in that warrior element. To inspire people to fight for their dreams. It’s the spirit of a go-getter, a hustler, and streetwear needs that vibe.” 

An outfit by Nitin Bal Chauhan | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Nitin cleverly manages to take the form of medieval armour and create contemporary silhouettes with intricate construction. Hoodies, jackets, bomber jackets, baggy pants and tapered cargo pants are given individuality with industrial washes, unexpected loops, rivets and zips.  

Miniature paintings of the Devi Kothi temple are then hand-painted onto hoodies using Air Ink — an ink made from collecting vehicular carbon emissions in Delhi and NCR, which the designer has been experimenting with. “If anything can help curb air pollution, we should try it,” says Nitin. “The most scarce pigment in the world is black. So it’s a beautiful window of opportunity.”  

Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna: Old world glamour and pearls  

As the music swells, the ramp lit by buttery, flickering candles, is filled with statuesque models swathed in lightweight, flowing silks and rippling pearls.  

The popular designers embrace quiet luxury, inspired by Rajasthan’s palaces with their inlaid marble and textured sandstone. The collection offers refined minimalism, but still feels extravagant, luxurious and contemporary with matador jackets, wide leg relaxed fit trousers and structured silhouettes. “We started 30 years ago,” says Rohit, adding, “At that time wives and mothers used to buy men clothes. Now, men know exactly what they want. They have become more experimental, and grooms don’t want to be overshadowed by the bride anymore.”

A creation by Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

Rahul adds, “Inspired by Jaipur, we wanted to glam it up this year, so we added pearls, gemstones and chocolate colours. We chose pearls, because they are subtle. They shine, but not in an overpowering way.” 

VK is inspired by the Thirukkural | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

VK by Vivek Karunakaran: Design that’s rooted in home 

The collection, which is a celebration of identity, features softly draped veshtis, fluid palazzos and embroidered Madras checks and is rooted in Tamil Nadu, specifically Chennai. “There is pride in owning where you are from,” says Vivek, who launched his label in Chennai 18 years ago.

An outfit by Vivek Karunakaran | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement

His latest line is inspired by the Thirukkural, reimagined in natural fibres like silk organza, taffeta, linen and Egyptian cotton. The clothes are painstakingly embroidered, reflecting the craftsmanship of temple carvings, and repeating the motif of jasmine flowers. As models walk the ramp in ecru, vanilla, scarlet and crimson, intricate detailing is apparent: from jasmine flowers placed from wrist to elbow as felt applique, the way flower-sellers measure spools, to handstitched Madras checks created as a texture on the garments.  

Designer Sushant Abrol (centre) with models sporting his range | Photo Credit: DANISH

Countrymade by Sushant Abrol: A softer take on military fashion  

With a palette steeped in deep greys and brown hues, this collection questions warfare, inspired by a charred piece of an aircraft’s fuselage. Designer Sushant Abrol describes the residual of war with his clothes, and although they are based on the combative forms of military clothing, from trench coats to bomber jackets, they also exude a sense of hope with thoughtful details like kantha stitches that run through the collection and metal-like buttons, crafted in a pottery studio with stoneware clay.

There are hand-tucked fabrics, craggy denim textures and intricate handmade textures in camouflage patterns. The collection also features frayed edges on shirts and jackets and prints drawn from the shape of molten metal.  Sushant says that they experimented with leather for the line, “We used pigments on undyed leather, then spray painted it and dried it till it became hard, and we got cracks like a spider web.”  

A creation by Sushant Abrol  | Photo Credit: DANISH

There are lots of accessories from molten metal buckles to rings and pocket squares. “It is military but a different perspective. We look at the emotional side of men in uniform,” says Sushant. “Our take is heartfelt.” 

Nikita Mhaisalkar’s range was themed on Africa | Photo Credit: DANISH

Nikita Mhaisalkar: Prints on travel wear  

From putting men in shimmering corsets to creating lavish embroidery carpeted over geometric weaves on jackets, Nikita’s collection celebrates the cheerful notes of Afro pop culture.

Inspired by the designer’s recent holiday in Africa, the collection is a tribute to travel, featuring structured pant suits, bomber jackets and flowing trench coats. “I saw so many tribes at the safari reserves, and each of them had their own print cultures,” she says, adding that studying their sacred geometry, joyous pattern clash and celebration of form resulted in this collection.

Apparel from Nikita Mhaisalkar’s collection | Photo Credit: DANISH

It also features her favourite material, hemp. “It’s very organic, very versatile, very luxurious and extremely breathable,” she says. Discussing how Indian men have started taking an interest in fashion over the past few years, especially post-pandemic, she adds “People are travelling so much now, that they are looking for smart travel staples, so I’ve also used crepes and silks that travel well. Now customers want clothes that are easy to maintain, and pocket friendly.” 

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